In pictures, the beaches of the Outer Hebrides will be comparable to that of the Caribbean. In reality, the area’s remote wilderness and harsh Hebridean winds can be a completely different story altogether. Campervan the Outer Hebrides for both; expecting the latter and hoping for the incredible paradisiacal conditions. I swear – it’s worth the risk!
My Hebridean roots have ultimately led the Outer Hebrides to be an extension of my love for the Isle of Lewis and Harris. The beauty is undeniable across the chain of islands, so hop over to discover them for yourself. This island-hopping guide will provide you with an outline to plan whilst answering your questions along the way.
Are you interested in having the points of interest at your fingertips on your Google Map? Consider gaining access to the Scottish Highlands and Islands Google Map Legend.
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Table of Contents
Campervan Outer Hebrides: Island Summary
The Outer Hebrides are often referred to as the Western Isles. The larger inhabited islands are the Isle of Lewis (and Harris), the ‘Uists’ (North Uist, Benbecula and South Uist) and Barra. The ‘Uists’ are connected by stretches of road causeways. Some of the smaller islands include Vatersay, Berneray, Scalpay, Eriskay, St Kilda and the Shiants.
Isle of Lewis & Harris
With mountains, moors and machair to beaches, bogs and black pudding; this island is a slice of heaven for the wild and free! It’s the largest and the most inhabited of the group – by far! Read this guide to visit Lewis ad Harris by campervan.
Scalpay
The island of Scalpay was connected to Harris by a road bridge in 1998. Whilst it may only be 2.5-square-miles in total, the island hosts a thriving fishing community. Cross the bridge to mingle with the locals, or follow the circular walk to see the Eilean Glas Lighthouse and maybe even spot some seals, otters, eagles, dolphins or whales.
Berneray
Traffic from Harris rolls off the ferry onto Berneray which is connected to North Uist with a causeway. Needless to say, you shouldn’t overlook this tiny island as there are plenty of white-sand beaches to discover on every side.
North Uist
This is the second largest island in the Outer Hebrides. As you drive through the Uists, you’ll pass an abundance of freshwater lochs which together resemble the up-close outlines of land on a map. These bodies of water provide the locals with great opportunities to fish, as well as any twitcher a setting to watch birds.
Benbecula
Connected to the Uists by causeways, you might not even notice the change of islands as you drive onto Benbecula. The east of the island is pitted with lochs, whilst the west coast contains the Benbecula Airport and Balivanich, a village with everyday conveniences such as; an ATM, post office, petrol station and supermarket.
South Uist
South Uist is the longest of the southern chain of islands with its 20-mile-long west coast being an almost unbroken stretch of sandy beach. The true adventure of the island lies with those brave enough to divert from the main north-to-south road.
Eriskay
Eriskay is quaint and decorated with the colours of machair, so don’t pass through without nipping out for a wander. The roads are tiny with little space to park up, but you’ll notice visitors flock around The Politician for pub grub and a shortcut down to the beach. The wee island will burst your heart with joy as you struggle to know where to look.
Barra
Barra, otherwise known as ‘Barradise‘, is the Outer Hebrides in miniature. The A888 allows visitors to circumnavigate the 23-square-mile island in a matter of hours. Plus, the wide shallow bay of Traigh Mhor is the only beach airport in the world that hosts scheduled airline flights. Time your visit to watch one of the tiny planes take off from here, as one of the world’s most spectacular airports.
Vatersay
Now connected by a short causeway, Vatersay is a worthwhile trip from the island of Barra. There mightn’t be much on the island but it packs a mighty punch, especially as far as idyllic beaches go.
St Kilda
The faraway island of St Kilda used to be inhabited by 36 islanders, but now it’s ‘home to nearly 1 million seabirds, including the UK’s largest colony of Atlantic puffins‘, according to the National Trust for Scotland. Although St Kilda is most definitely not an island for campervans, you may still want to look into a boat tour from Harris or the Isle of Skye.
How to Campervan the Outer Hebrides
Compact and self-contained campervans will grant you the freedom to move around the Outer Hebrides without being scheduled to stop over anywhere in particular. Therefore, campervans are one of the most convenient means of transport for exploring the islands.
On the other hand, you will also come across many cyclists on the roads too as the Hebridean Way is a popular route for bikepackers.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can You Take a Campervan to the Outer Hebrides?
Campervans, motorhomes and caravans are welcomed on all of the ferry services operating between the islands and the mainland. It is possible to hire a vehicle on the island, but most visitors bring a campervan from the mainland via one of the many ferry services available.
Can You Wild Camp in the Outer Hebrides?
Wild camping is permitted across Scotland, including the Scottish Islands. However, you could help nurture a sustainable relationship between van lifers, the community and the local wildlife by parking appropriately. Here are a few rules and recommendations:
- Do not park in passing places, in front of houses or in local business car parks.
- Try to avoid parking in crowded areas.
- The machair is a fragile haven for wildlife; it’s vital to the islands’ ecosystem and crofters’ livestock. Please do not drive or park your vehicle on top of the machair.
- Wherever possible, light a stove as opposed to an open fire. The models that are capable of lighting in the wind are recommended for obvious reasons.
- If in doubt, ask the land owner.
When is the Best Time to Visit the Outer Hebrides?
Truthfully I must admit, that as I compile this blog post my campervan is swaying in the Hebridean gusts between some pretty harsh rainstorms. This might come as a disappointment to read, as I’m sure that your research has revealed picture-after-picture of calm, turquoise and pristine beachscapes. Therefore, my advice to you would be to expect the worst and hope for the best. It isn’t always (and not normally) serenity in the Outer Hebrides, although there are months that are better than others with an increased likelihood of kinder weather conditions.
The months between July and August are typically the busiest period of the year because the weather is likely to be calmer and, the schools are closed for their summer holidays. May, June and September are the advised alternatives for a less crowded experience. All of these months (May to September) have the longest days so you’ll have more light hours to make the most of your trip.
What is the best month to travel to Scotland as a whole? Find out the cheapest, sunniest and driest time to visit in the detailed month-by-month breakdown.
Where Do You Catch a Ferry to the Outer Hebrides?
The Outer Hebrides are linked to the mainland via a number of vehicle ferry services. In addition, there are also daily inter-island ferries which frequently sail between Barra and Eriskay, plus Berneray and Harris. These ferry crossings are operated by Calmac Ferries. Their routes can be viewed on this map.
To Drive from the North to South:
The most popular route to the Outer Hebrides is from Ullapool (Mainland) to Stornoway (Isle of Lewis). By starting here, you’ll hop between the islands from the largest (and most populated) to the smallest (and one of the lesser populated). Stornoway is the most populated settlement in the Outer Hebrides with the most services, conveniences and facilities – perhaps it’ll be easier for you to find your feet there first?
If you are already in Skye (or the above ferry is fully booked), then you can also catch a ferry from Uig (Skye) to Tarbert (Harris). Furthermore, if you happen to be regretfully skipping the Isle of Lewis and Harris then there is also a ferry between Uig (Skye) and Lochmaddy (North Uist).
To Drive from the South to North:
If you are driving the entire length of the Outer Hebrides from the south, then you could roll on and off the ferry between Oban (Mainland) and Castlebay (Barra). However, ferries also operate from Tiree and Coll if you were looking to explore the Inner Hebrides as well.
Outer Hebrides Campervan Route
Short Alternative:
If you have limited time to visit the Outer Hebrides, then a road trip between Stornoway (Lewis) and Tarbert (Harris) may be the perfect compromise.
Main Route:
The route for the entire Outer Hebrides road trip is from north to south, or vice versa. Below is a general itinerary which should aid you in your initial research stages and provide you with an outline of the ferry journeys.
⛴️ Ullapool (Mainland) – Stornoway (Isle of Lewis)
Approximate Journey Time: 2 hours 30 minutes
🚐 Stornoway (Isle of Lewis) – Leverburgh (Isle of Harris)
Approximate Journey Time: 1 hour 20 minutes
⛴️ Leverburgh (Isle of Harris) – Berneray (North Uist)
Approximate Journey Time: 1 hour
🚐 Berneray (North Uist) – Eriskay (South Uist)
Approximate Journey Time: 1 hour 25 minutes
⛴️ Eriskay (South Uist) – Ardmhòr (Barra)
Approximate Journey Time: 40 minutes
🚐 Ardmhòr (Barra) – Vatersay – Castlebay (Barra)
Approximate Journey Time: 30 minutes
⛴️ Castlebay (Barra) – Oban (Mainland)
Approximate Journey Time: 4 hours 45 minutes
RELATED: Outer Hebrides Campervan Overnight Parking
Packing Essentials for the Outer Hebrides
Overall, you should diversify your suitcase of clothes to suit all weather conditions, particularly the harsh winds and cold rainfall. This isn’t a guide for the obvious such as a waterproof jacket, possibly a wetsuit and something warm, but a reminder to pack the smaller things you mightn’t have thought about.
Binoculars
From the expansive ocean views to the more mountainous regions of the Outer Hebrides, there will be opportunities to spot all sorts of wildlife regardless of whether you are a seasoned twitcher or a total newbie.
Of all the birds, the Golden and Sea Eagles are perhaps the biggest reward in the area. There is also plenty of sea life such as seals, dolphins, porpoises, Minke Whales, Orcas and the occasional Basking Shark. On land, you may spot an otter, red deer or a mountain hare. This diversity of wildlife is what attracts many visitors to the islands.
Don’t miss out and be curious by bringing a pair of binoculars with you. Besides, you might also want to check out what’s happening on the nearest trawler, or eye up the prettiest cottage in the distance!
Notes & Coins
The Outer Hebrides has plenty of facilities to accommodate campervans (for example, Hushinish Gateway). Stock up on pound coins beforehand as you’ll be surprised at how much you spend on shower meters, parking, waste disposal facilities, laundry and fresh roadside eggs.
Similarly, you’ll require cash to donate to the community through honesty boxes for park-ups. Please be kind to do so; this may just be your holiday, but it’s their home. Donations will help contribute to the upkeep of the facilities and repair any damage that may be left as a result of the through traffic.
Mobile Router
For a land far, far away you may be pleasantly surprised at the signal strength in the Outer Hebrides. It hasn’t always been up to the mainland standard but new phone masts have been installed more recently which has brought the islands back into the modern world of connectivity, especially on the Isle of Lewis and Harris.
There was one saving grace which allowed me to have a reliable internet connection to work remotely from the campervan; the amazing Netgear Mobile Router is the best internet setup for van lifers.
Little Critter Deterrents
Luckily for the Hebrideans, the typically breezy days tend to keep the midges away. Still… On the rare calm days, you’ll want to be prepared. Ticks are not as common in the Outer Hebrides as they are on the mainland, though there is still the possibility, especially if you are passing through the Scottish Highlands and Skye.
Midge Net
Tick Remover
Midge Spray
TIP: Check the midge forecast beforehand to better prepare your defences.
Waterproof Shoes
Whether you’re scaling the highest peak on the island, wading through the sandy shores, hopping across bogs or you’re just having a shower in the public bathrooms… You will need footwear that will keep the water out or will be able to withstand being submerged in fresh or seawater.
Hiking Trainers
Wellies
Crocs
SIMILAR: Visit Lewis and Harris by Campervan
Tips to Campervan the Outer Hebrides
Campervan & Motorhome Services
Out with the campsites on the islands, you can trust that the Calmac ferry terminals also offer free facilities to empty and refill your water and waste. For instance, the ferry terminal on Eriskay has chemical waste disposal, recycling bins, freshwater taps and a shower. This ensures that campers are never stuck for places to leave their waste responsibly, and, on every new island you hop on, you’ll be clean, refreshed and ready to go.
Check the Wind Forecast
The Hebridean Winds can be extremely harsh, especially if they are propelling sand at you or have caught you on a boat! They are unforgiving, brutal and often dangerous. Make sure to keep an eye on the weather forecast whilst you plan your day. This will be particularly important if you are travelling around the islands in a high-sided vehicle. Trust me – I’ve had a few sleepless nights listening to the winds lift my van off the ground!
Sunday Closures
The Sabbath Day is practised on Sundays predominantly in the northern islands of the Outer Hebrides. Therefore, you should expect most of the supermarkets and shops to be closed whilst a significant proportion of the community attends church.
Get Aurora Alerts
Depending on the season you visit, there may be a slight chance of witnessing the Aurora Borealis. In fact, the Isle of Lewis was the location of my first time seeing them, so you could be as lucky! Increase your odds by downloading the AuroraWatch app on your phone. These forecasts will notify you if there is any aurora activity.
Find Your Own Paradise
The Outer Hebrides has many obvious beauty spots that can easily become overcrowded. At the same time, there are hundreds of hidden gems hiding along the coastline. To increase your chances of striking luck, view your map on Google through the ‘satellite’ layer. That way, if there are any white-sand and turquoise-watered beaches to be found, you’ll see them. Not so hidden after all!
Stocking Up
The Outer Hebrides’ tourism is an important part of their local economy. This includes the money being spent in local shops, petrol stations, accommodation and pubs. Don’t be scared into thinking that you’ll need to stock up before sailing across as there are major supermarkets and smaller local shops across the islands. Plus, you might even sometimes find that the fuel costs are lower over there!
Download Your Maps
With the unreliable network service coverage on the islands, you should consider downloading the maps onto your phone beforehand so that they can be viewed offline. This can be done with Google Maps or Maps.Me.
In addition, you could have the showers, best park-ups, places to see and notable eateries at your fingertips with our Scottish Highlands & Islands Google Map Legend. It’s tailored to suit van lifers like us, so you shouldn’t have to do as much research.
Scottish Highlands Google Map Legend
This Google Map Legend showcases 140+ need-to-know coordinates within our bonnie Scottish Highlands & Islands:
- Awesome Wild Camping Park-Ups
- Best Walks, Viewpoints, Beaches
- Bucket List Locations
- Accessible Showers & Fresh Water Taps
- Relevant Links to Online Travel Guides
Alternative Road Trip: Scotland's North Coast 500
Let’s go!
@katie.maree
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